The 1KZ-TE engine has a cast-iron block with Compression ratio rating is The engine is equipped with the EGR system. Redline is rpm. The cylinder block has a monoblock high-strength cast-iron structure with the five-bearing-support system. The cylinder bores were plateau honed for more efficient piston ring sealing. The 1KZ-TE engine is equipped with a fully balanced steel crankshaft that has five main journals and operated on aluminum alloy bearings.
The connecting rods are made from lightweight carbon steel and each rod has an internal oil passage which supplied an oil gallery in the piston. The pistons are made from aluminum alloy and an FRM fiber reinforced metal top ring groove to improve wear resistance. Each piston is fitted with two compression and one oil control rings. The cylinder bore is The 1KZ-TE has an aluminum alloy cylinder head with a cross-flow configuration which is mounted on a steel laminate type head gasket and had plastic region tightening bolts.
The engine has single overhead SOHC high-quality steel camshaft and two valves per cylinder: one intake and one exhaust 8 valves in total. The camshaft is driven by a timing belt and gears.
Intake valves are The Toyota 1KZ-TE engine does not have hydraulic lifters, so special shims are used to adjust the valve clearance. Shims are available in 17 sizes from 2. Dear visitors, this site is not a trading platform, an official dealer or a spare parts supplier, so we do not have any price lists or spare parts catalogs. We are an information portal and provide the technical specifications of gasoline and diesel engines. We try to use verified sources and official documentation, however, differences between sources or errors in entering information may occur.
We do not provide advice on technical issues related to the engines operation or repair.Quick Links.
SPECIALISED AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRONICS Pty Ltd
See also: Repair Manual. Table of Contents. Please note that the publications below have also been prepared as relevant service manuals for the compo. All information in this manual is based on the latest product information at the time of publication. Specifications and procedures are subject to change without notice.1994 Toyota Hiace 1kz-te bad ECU
This CD may not be repro. This manual does not include all the necessary items about repair and service. This manual is made. In the. In order to prevent dangerous operation and damages to your customer's vehicle, be sure to follow. Must read this manual thoroughly.
It is especially important to have good understanding all the. The service method written in this manual is very effective to perform repair and service. If using non--specified or recommended tools and service method. If part replacement is necessary, must replace the part with the same part number or equivalent. It is important to note that this manual contains various "Cautions" and "Notices" that must be.
Toyota 1KZ-TE Engine Computer ECU Repair
It is also. Engine Toyota 2F Repair Manual pages. This CD may not be repro- duced or copied, in whole or in part, without the written permission of Toyota Motor Corporation. First Printing; Jun. To assist you in finding your way through the manual, the section title and major heading are given at the top of every page. Always use a torque wrench. Use of special service tools SST and special service ma- terials SSM may be required, depending on the nature of the repair.
After completing a job, double check that the vacu- um hoses are properly connected. In general, the ECU controlled system is considered to be a very intricate system requiring a high level of technical knowledge and expert skill to troubleshoot. This flow chart shows how to utilize the diagnostic trouble code check effectively, then by carefully checking the results, indicates how to proceed either to diagnostic trouble code troubleshooting or to troubleshooting of problem symptoms.
This table permits efficient and accurate troubleshoot- ing using the diagnostic trouble codes displayed in the diagnostic trouble code check.
D Diagnostic Trouble Code No.Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker. Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media. Resources Latest reviews Search resources. Members Registered members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. Log in. What's new. Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread.
I tried re-starting it several times and it just wouldn't crank into life. Eventually I got it going but if I took my foot off the accelerator it wouldn't idle. I could drive it but as soon as it went near idle RPM it died. I pulled the ECU which looked fine - no leaky diodes etc. Truck went fine after that but got the mechanic to check it over when it went in for a WOF - no fault codes showed up but maybe cause I had taken the ECU out.
Anyway, a couple of times since it has stalled the first time I try to turn it on and then takes 2 - 4 goes and it will fire up and run fine. Seems a very intermittent problem and its pissing me off! Has anyone else had this issue and successfully resolved it? It doesn't always throw up a fault code. Can you buy the spill control valve separately? I guess you still need to get a mechanic to pull the injector pump out to access and remove the valve? Bloody thing did it again last night when I got dropped back at the vehicle - only started with a bit of right foot then had to drive with the left foot on the brake and right foot keeping the revs up at intersections etc.
After a couple of kms all was running fine again Anyone ever heard of an injection pumps sudden death? I wonder if it has anything to do with the immobiliser.
I imported the car from UK 5 yrs ago. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. Jump to. Who is online Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests.
All times are UTC Top.Sell general listings with no success fees, plus more exclusive benefits with Choice by Trade Me. Current subscription listings:. Listings this month:. Monthly plan:. Prepaid listings remaining:. Prepaid branding remaining:. Prepaid features remaining:. Prepaid promoted listings remaining:.
Buy a job pack. Whether you have sold your item on Trade Me, or have something else you need to send, you can use our 'Book a courier' service. Search expired listings. View category directory. List a General item List for free - only pay when it sells. Other vehicle Motorbikes, boats, caravans and more. Sell and save on fees Sell general listings with no success fees, plus more exclusive benefits with Choice by Trade Me.
View My Trade Me. Reporting Monthly summary Export agent reports Export job reports Current subscription listings: Listings this month: Monthly plan: Prepaid listings remaining: Prepaid branding remaining: Prepaid features remaining: Prepaid promoted listings remaining: Buy a job pack.
Book a courier Manage bookings Send my sold item Send something else. Got something to send? Professional seller? Try My Products, a free Trade Me tool that helps you manage your listings.
View community. Announcements Message board Help. Register Log in. Search Trade Me. Trade Me Motors. Condition All New Used. On sale. Free shipping. Buy Now. Quick view. Start price. Toyota Prius Ecu. Toyota Camry Ecu. Toyota Auris Ecu.Posted: Thu Dec 31, am. After reading about the benefits other people have had replacing the electrolytic caps in the ECU, I finally did mine.
Even though the brand of caps Toyota used in my ECU anyway is a decent brand Nichicon10 years is usually the expected life of electrolytics The first thing i've noticed is definitely less smoke on startup If a normal polarised electrolytic is used here, something might not work properly.
If you can get a 1uF non-electrolytic cap to replace it Always use caps that are rated for the same voltage or slightly higher. Try to avoid using ones that rated far higher like V ones where 16V ones are required as they will probably fail prematurerly due to not reforming properly during each charging-discharging cycle.
It is also best to try and use degree rated caps instead of the 85 degree ones for reliability.
There are cmos chips on the pcb that can be easily fried by static. The pcb is double sided, so means that it can be a pain in the arse to get old components out and new ones in I will be getting my done very soon, we think that I have damaged a cap whilst replacing the alt due to the voltage difference as my torque lconverter ock up is intermittent. Yes we did replace the gearbox whilst at it but the gearbox was in full working order when we swapped it.
Note for those with auto trans models. Your ECU has two PCBs in the one "box" which are connected by a ribbon so extra care is required, there are also two additional "caps" on this board to replace which are uF 10V as stated use 16V. To save silly questions this is due to the one "module" controlling both the engine and transmission, Other manufacturers call this the PCM Powertrain Control Module, Ford and Holden for example I've mentioned this in other threads but the general rule with caps is a hour life at the rated voltage.
This roughly equated to km when doing a case study on a boat however one would think that when averaging out speeds and vehicle use in our applications km would not be an unreasonable figure which seems to equate to when most are rebuilding their ECUs. Buzz Lightyear electric Quad Mr Dog. Any car with door open. I've mentioned this in other threads but the general rule with caps is a hour life at the rated voltage. Posted: Fri Jan 01, am. Well I am going to have to open mine up and do this as well.
It might fix my warm start issues and the missing on cold idle. This is probably the cause as I've got black smoke on startup as well where it didn't have it before. Posted: Fri Jan 01, pm. There is no standard lifespan for electrolytics in general.
How close to their rated voltage they are being run, what temperatures they are being run at etc, can all affect the operating lifespan. Even the rated figures are only indicators. Nothing more. Can we please stop making out that electrolytics crap themselves completely after low duty cycles please? Granted, electrolytics are the most prone of the capacitor family to fail, but no way on earth are they that bad.Starting price. No reserve. Toyota engine computers rely on various electronic components for proper function.
These can fail if maintenance is not performed rendering the car undriveable. If you have bad idle, misfires and high fuel consumption the ECU is often at fault due to leaking capacitors. Please note that due to the age of the components, and various states of condition these older vehicles can be in there is a chance of continued problems beyond the ECU which means I can't provide a total guarantee such an ECU fix will sort your all issues.
It's not possible to guarantee ECU repairs on engine conversion due to the custom wiring that differs from OEM vehicles, there are too many variables and 'bad' custom wiring can easily damage the ECU circuits inside. Skip to site navigation Skip to main content. Register Log in. This listing closed and did not sell. The item has been relisted.
Browse for similar listings in ECUs View the relisted item. This item has been relisted. Seller accepts. Member since. View seller's other listings. Read our safe buying advice. Share this listing Email. Learn more Tell us what you think.